Chef and co-owner Gino Assaf, formerly of Gondola in North Beach, serves up rustic northern Italian cuisine in a decidedly non-rustic setting. Think industrial chic, with mannequins, movie projections and more.

The vibe: There’s a certain cool factor at work here, from the minimalist concrete walls and floors to the clever ceiling art and old-school movies projected above the kitchen.

The crowd: Young Mission-ites, large parties and overflow from the neighborhood’s many bars and clubs.

Best seat: Just past the bar is a single high table – made of concrete, naturally – that’s the perfect perch for sipping and crowd-watching. Otherwise, the bar itself gets the best ventilation, the back tables the best view of the big screen.

Killer app: House-made pappardelle with wild boar bolognese ($14) and pizzas ($12-$15) are great for sharing, while the rock cod with garlic and capers ($17) makes for a simple and satisfying entree.

Signature drink: If you like spice, the Tequila-based Bomba ($9) will tickle your throat, thanks to a hefty dose of serrano pepper. Meanwhile, the Blood Orange Negroni ($9) is a lighter, sweeter take on the classic Negroni, with Aperol standing in for Campari.

Also on tap: Wine, as evidenced by the impressive display of bottles near the bar. Italian varietals dominate, and there’s even Barolo by the glass.

Bonus: A four-course prix fixe menu is available for $34.95 and includes an appetizer, pasta, entree and dessert.

Specchio: 2331 Mission St., S.F. (415) 956-5528. www.ristorantespecchio.com. 5:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., until 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

- Janny Hu, jhu@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G – 12 of the San Francisco Chronicle